The basics of guinea pigs, and what every potential guinea pig care-giver needs to know.
History-
Guinea pigs (or cavies) originated in the Andean region of South America (primarily in present day Peru). They were domesticated for food by tribes in that area, and brought to England as pets by Spanish, Dutch and English traders. The name guinea pig however is of uncertain origin. The English may have called these cavies "guinea pigs" because the traders that brought them sailed through Guinea before they went to England. It may also be because they were sold for one "guinea" in England, and squeaked like pigs (who they are not directly related to).
Appearance-
There are three main types of guinea pigs;
Short Haired-
Also known as “American” or “English”, these guinea pigs have short, glossy hair with no part in it (often only one color, though not necessarily).
The term “short haired guinea pig” also includes all other guinea pigs with (you guessed it) short hair. These short haired guinea pigs are best for beginners, as longer hair requires more care.
Abyssinian-
Peruvian-
Other types of guinea pigs, most of which also fall into the “short haired” general category, are:
White Crested-
Distinguished by their single “crown” (or rosette) on top of their head. Short haired.
Coronet-
Similar to the Silkie, see below, except this guinea pig has a single crown (aka rosette) atop its head.
Long Haired.
Silkie-
A silkie has long hair that flows back over its body, and never goes forward over the face like the Peruvian. Their hair is very soft and shiny, but requires lots of maintenance.
Long haired.
Skinny Pig-
Though this guinea pig is called hairless, it does have some hair. They do not require the same brushing that other guinea pigs need, but they do have other special needs.
Short haired.
Teddy-
A Teddy has a very thick dense and fuzzy coat, with hairs that stand up all over. There fur typically grows to a moderate length and generally makes this breed resemble a soft teddy bear. The Teddy has long hair that covers their bellies, in contract to other breeds whose bellies are almost bare. Regular brushing is required.
Short/medium haired.
Texel-
Texel pigies are like the long haired Silkie except with curly hair. Though possibly their most desirable feature, this long curly hair is also one of the most problematic. Texel’s are not advised for children or adults who don’t have the time to care for them. They make good show pigs though.
Long haired.
Guinea pigs come in many different colors, including varying shades of yellow, brown, copper, black, and white. Most of the time their eyes are black, though some are naturally red. Eyes that turn red can be a sign of disease though.
Guinea pigs come in many different colors, including varying shades of yellow, brown, copper, black, and white. Most of the time their eyes are black, though some are naturally red. Eyes that turn red can be a sign of disease though.
Care-
Diet-
Guinea pigs require a stable diet of hay and pellets. They should be fed pellets once or twice and day, and hay whenever they are out of it. Uneaten food should be replaced every two or three days, and bowls occasionally cleaned out. They also require fruits and vegetables and/or vitamin c pills because they are unable to produce vitamin c, and as for the fruits and vegetables, just because its nutritious and they like it. Other treats are also available to them. They should not be fed too much treats though, as hay and pellets are their main meal. Guinea pigs prefer a variety of treats, and will not hesitant to inform when they don’t want anymore.
Housing-
Guinea pigs what substantial space in their house. They want condos and mansions, elaborate evil lairs and lots and lots of toys and goodies from them to poke around in and mess up. They want a buddy to hang out with, and a person to feed them.
Luckily, they settle for a cage or hutch about 7.5 square feet (medium and large dog cages work pretty good too), or larger depending on how many guinea pigs there are. Larger is better, in that case. There are lots of of toys (some homemade) that guinea pigs will like (e.g. large piping to run through, hay tunnels, towel forts, etc), but they will definitely need a “igloo” or other type of housing that gives them (in their opinion ;) ) a little safety and comfort. You may also make a “outdoor” house for them, something that safe and sturdy (in case of dogs, cats, hawks), and can go outside (allowing them to eat grass), and not forcing you to have to watch them every second. However this is all fine and well, but don’t leave them out there too long, no more then an hour or so. After all, how long can your little piggy(ies) smorgasbord? Guinea pigs also like partners (piggy buddies!!!), and unless your guinea pigs are spayed and neutered, they should be of the same gender. Guinea pigs not of the same litter may need a little time to adjust to each other before they get tossed in with each other, so that they don’t fight. Some may never adjust- you don’t want to adopt a guinea pig that’s going to beat up your other guinea pig, so get the guinea pigs together and see if its going to work before adopting/buying. If at all possible, adopt/buy in pairs (or more, if you can handle it, and the guinea pigs get along).
Cages should not be placed in a drafty place, such as near a door that is opened and closed regularly or a window. They should have some sunlight and some night time (don’t place them where light is consistently shining, or depends entirely on artificial light).
Grooming-
Guinea pigs require a definitely level of grooming depending on, normally, the length and style of their hair (see Appearance, above). Most guinea pigs do a bit of self grooming, and especially with more then one guinea pig are housed together, care-givers will need to inspect their guinea pigs for “barbering” (where one guinea pig pulls out the hair of the other). Hair loss, without the tell tale signs of little spots of blood if its barbering, can by a sign of mites or another infection, and the guinea pig(s) in question should be taken to the Vet right away.
The Vet-
You will need to find a “exotic animals” vet for your guinea pig (not as difficult as it sounds). There is no excuse, they need to be taken in every six months or so. If your have minor problems with your guinea pigs, like a tooth falling out (like human baby teeth, this sometimes happens) or hair loss you may consider looking up the symptoms online before taking him/her to the vet (in case its just natural- like the tooth).
Adopting/Buying-
Is A Guinea Pig Right For Me?
There are some factors you should consider before getting a guinea pig. Yes, you may have fallen in love with its online picture and profile, but trust me, that guinea pig did not write “I’m cute and cuddly and just want you to take me home!” (after all, what do guinea pigs have human slaves for?), so think carefully before you rush out and adopt him/her.
Here are some important questions to ask yourself (or your child/brother/sister/relative, as the case may be) before you adopt/buy a guinea pig:
- Can I afford it? {Guinea pigs cost money. On top of that, you have to buy a cage, toys, cleaning supplies, treats, and hay and pellets. You’ll have to take them to the vet, and pay for that. You’ll have to continue to feed them and care for them for 5-12 years (their lifetime). Can you afford it?}
- Am I a good care-giver? {Those below the age of six, unless under very special circumstances, should not consider a guinea pig (unless with the help of parents, for they will inevitably be doing most of the work). I personally bought me first guinea pig at age seven, not wanting to push it too much. Seniors may also not want guinea pigs, though some do make great comfort animals, make sure you can properly care for it}
- What type of guinea pig should I get? Should I get more then one? {As you now know, what type of guinea pig you get can make a big difference in how much you need to care for it. And, guinea pigs are really social animals. Though you may think you’ll spend hours and hours with your new best friend, you’ll be away at work or school for most of the day, and some guinea pigs suffer severe loneliness and boredom without a playmate to keep them entertained. You should be spending at least half an hour with your guinea pig a day though, whatever you decide.}
Adopting vs. buying
This is a very important question, and I think the answer should become obvious to you.
I bet you didn’t know that you could adopt guinea pigs. I’ve had many people ask me what a guinea pig rescue was. Well, a guinea pig rescue is a group of people that foster and care for neglected and abandoned guinea pigs so that they can be adopted out to good loving home, when they are ready.
Guinea pigs that come to the rescue often have had traumatic pasts. Some may have been dumped by their owners, unable to care for them properly or who didn’t want them anymore, with a friend or another rescue, eventually being ferried around to this rescue. Some may have been dumped just out on the street. Some came from breeders or hoarders who also couldn’t care for them or didn’t want them anymore. I remember hearing about a rescue I was working with about one time when a group of rescues teamed up to take in 65 or so neglected guinea pigs that the breeder had threatened to dump in the woods behind her house. Its those kinds of guinea pigs, the ones that have lived through the bad times and still are curious and strong, and want a chance to find a forever home, that come to rescues. You could also buy guinea pigs at a store, through a breeder, or online; online being a very iffy prospect, at the store promoting more guinea pig breeders to overstock the population, and of course the expense of a real breeder (often breeding guinea pigs for show) topping it all. Adopting is probably the way to go.
Adopting may cost a little more then the guinea pigs at the store, but the rewards are probably be worth it. By adopting from a rescue, a good one at least, you will have a back bone of support to fall back on. If you are experiencing any difficulty with your guinea pig(s), rescue volunteers may be able to help. Also, many- dare I say most- rescues have their guinea pigs spayed and neutered before adopting out, so you won’t have to worry about babies. The application process will take a little longer then the credit card at the store, but that too is worth it, as rescuers have the guinea pig’s best interest in mind, and though they really hope that your family is the number one perfect fit for this guinea pig, they will not hesitate to call of an adoption if they find a problem. Though it may seem disappointing, its best if a potentially serious problem is discovered before you adopt a guinea pig or two, rather then after wards.
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